TURTLE-NECKED CABLED PONCHO

                      

Hello, here I am again with another Cable pattern.  You may use this pattern to your heart's content, just don't sell the pattern as it is free to use.  If you want to give me credit for the pattern that would be very ethical of you.
As to the  colourway, my daughter, for whom this was knit, for Christmas 2016, chose this one.  It would look good in any colour you choose.  I would suggest a solid or slightly variegated yarn.
It is basically a small blanket  with an opening for the neck in the middle. Also, you could make it in Two Pieces and leave an opening for the neck, picking up stitches and knitting the neck as you choose.  I made up the pattern to include a simple cable to add interest and a 'Slimming Effect'.

 Determining Overall Size:Measure how wide you want the poncho to be.  My daughter wanted it to go just a little below her elbows, so  for her, the Poncho is 30" wide. I measured from her shoulder to where she  wanted  the edge to end. Measured her chest, divided in half  then added the arm measurements, the  1 /2  chest measurement and so  had the width of the poncho. She wanted the length of it to go  just below her bottom so for her 24" long.  Using the gauge below,  of 3 sts = 1", 90 stitches equals 30". So I cast on 90sts to get the 30' width I needed.  I strongly suggest knitting up a 6" x 6" square first, to determine your gauge.  Measure a 4" square inside the 6".  You will then know what your personal gauge is and perhaps go up or down a needle size. If you want it wider to cover more of your arms you have to add stitches and I would suggest making the Garter Stitch Edges wider, which would be the easiest. So, if you want it to be wider  you  add stitches to each edge. 
Measure how long you want the front to be from your neck bone.  The back is measured the same.  Measure how wide your shoulders are on top.  This last measurement will determine how many rows you knit for the neck/head opening.  I did 10 rows.

  What you need: Yarn: I used Charisma Big, which is a Loops and Thread yarn by Michaels. It is a Bulky #5 yarn.  I used 4 skeins and that left me with a small ball.  If you want to make accessories, to go with the poncho buy an extra, so buy 5.  If you don't use it you can return it. I suggest  getting an extra skein anyway.
 Needles:  Size 9mm/US13 24 or 36" cable for the main body.   Size 9mm/US13 16" cable  for the turtleneck. or crew neck.
Gauge:   12sts  X  18rows  =  4" X 4"
Optional:  Six Large Decorative Buttons - 3 for each side
 
Pattern:
 Abbreviations:  K= Knit   P= Purl   Sts.= Stitches  RS =Right Side   WS= Wrong Side  Sl=  Slip
To Start, Loosely Cast on  90 sts.or  what your measurements determine the number to be.
Please Note:  The  first 9 and last 9 stitches of every row are Knit. This is the Garter Stitch Edge which you may want to be wider
Begin the Rib pattern Knitting in K2 P 2 for 10 Rows as follows:.
Row 1:   RS: Sl 1st;  K 8;  K2;  P2; to last 9 sts.  K9
Row  2: WS: Sl 1st;  K8;  K2;  P2;  to last 8 sts.  K9
Rows 3 to 10:  As previous Rows 1 and 2 and you will end on a Wrong Side.

Now you will start the Main Pattern, which is an 10 row pattern for the Cables
The first 8 rows are Rib stitch
 Row 1: RS- Sl 1st stitch,; K8; K4; P4; K3; P2; K3; P4; K32 this is the center panel) P4; K3; P2; K3; P4; K4; K9
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1st stitch, K8; P4; K4; P3; K2; P3; K4; P32; K4; P3; K2; P3; K4; P4; K9
Rows 3 to 8:  As Rows 1 and 2
Row 9: (RS) S1; K8; K4; P4; Now you place the next 4 sts on a stitch holder or cable pin.  Hold those 4 sts in front of your work.  K next 4 sts. Now k the 4 sts from the stitch holder/cable pin. Your first cable is done.  P4; K32; P4; Place the next 4sts on a stitch holder/pin.  Hold sts in front, K next 4sts. P4; K4; K9
Row 10: (WS) Sl 1st; K8; P4; K4; P8; K4; P32; K4; P8; K4; P4; K9
The next row will be the Right Side of your work. Repeat Rows 1 to 10 until you have the length you want for the front, ending on a Wrong Side row.
Making an opening for the Neck:  Determine the center stitch of your work. Counting that stitch as 1, count back for a total of 6 stitches.  Mark the next stitch as the end of the next row you will be knitting.  You are on the Right side of your work and maintaining the pattern, knit to that stitch marker.  Now using cable pin or a smaller cabled needle, place the next 12 stitches on that holder.  These will be picked up when you are knitting up the neck after the main body of the poncho is done.  Now you will attach another skein of yarn to the live stitch on your needle.  Knit the pattern as before to match the other half of your work.  You will continue to knit the pattern still using the same set of cabled needles, using two separate skeins of yarn for a total of 10 (or 12 rows if you want a larger neck opening), ending on a wrong side row.
 Finishing the Neck Opening:  Now on the next right side row you are going to keep to the pattern and knit to the last stitch.  Using  whatever Cast on Method you favour , cast on 12 stitches and with the same skein, continue to knit the stitches from the other side of your work (the rest of the stitches)  to the end of the row. You should now have the same number of stitches you were working with before.  My best advice is to Count the stitches to make sure you have the correct number of stitches on your needle.  
The Rest of the Poncho:  Continue knitting in pattern until the back is the same length as the front less the length of the ribbing on the front part, ending on a right side row.  Now you will do the Ribbing until it is the same length as the front ribbing.  Cast off Loosely in all knit stitch.
Neck of Poncho: You may decide to make a Crew Neck, Cowl Neck (which  is deeper in length and may need more stitches) instead of a Turtle, but the pick up and knit of the held stitches and added stitches are just the same.
Method: Use a shorter length cabled set of needles to pick up the 12 stitches from the cable pin. You may want to go up a needle size for more ease. Your total stitch count will be 42 stitches ( or 46 if you want more ease or drape if you want a Cowl Look) Now pick up and knit 10 (12) stitches on the side,  12 Sts. on the back, 10 (12) sts on the other side. Joining the row, and placing a marker to let you know the beginning/ending of your rows,  Knit 2 Purl 2 all around until you have the length/depth of neck you wish.  Cast off very Loosely - very important, or you will have a Pinched Look.
Embellishments:  You may want to use Large Buttons, Pompoms, Snaps or Bows of braided yarn. If you go for Pompoms, you may want to put a couple on the end of a braided/knit length of yarn and sew the braided yarn in a bow motif at the neck. Go crazy....it's your creation.   I used 6 Large Leather-Look Buttons because that is what the recipient desired.
Accessories: There are Toques, Beanies, Mittens, Leg Warmers, Arm Warmer Fingerless Gloves, you can work up with or without cables in the same yarn for a co-ordinated ensemble.
So, that is the pattern I made up.  If you find any errors, or you have questions, please let me know, in the comments section of this blog. Happy Knitting my friends. 

Play Yarn Chicken No More!! At Least when you Bind Off

 I am soooo happy to have found this excellent knitting hack!  It is easy to understand and implement.  Sometimes you need just one more row in your pattern and there just isn't enough yarn, so with this type of Bind Off, you get that "bind off with good behaviour"....no more epithets, no more pulling of hair, grinding of teeth!

Sapphires-n-Purls: A Knitting Blog: Yarnless Bind Off:

Another hint to add to this is, if you know that you are going to use this excellent bindoff, and you need a stretchy edge, I recommend that you knit that next to last row on larger needles to get more ease in the YBO.  This has 'saved' my sanity, for sure!

BRAIN DEAD ZOMBIE SHAWL..to be worn while watching Walking Dead😆

Hello.! This latest knit is one that I have worked on for much longer than it should have taken.  Here's why....even if you don't care to know, because in the explanation lies a Cautionary Tale!!!! OOOH SCAREEEY STUFFF!  This shawl starts very small and through Yarn Overs gets bigger and bigger, so there are many stitches on your needles.  I use cabled or circular needles by the way.  (Deep breath here) Anyway....about halfway through the shawl, I noticed that several rows down, there was a strange looking stitch.  Checked it and....I realized that I had knit the same stitches twice in one row.  How does that happen you wonder.  Well you put down your knitting somewhere near the middle of a row, go back to it and without thinking, start knitting back on the same row.  So, I had to unravel a few inches and many, many stitches to get back to the row I had goofed on and fix it.  One would think, "Well, I will be more careful about not doing that again." Uhhh, no!  Did it TWO more times!!!! After the THIRD fix (taking out a Zillion stitches) I said to myself "Whaaat! Were you Brain Dead the second and third times?"  So, I named it Brain Dead Zombie Shawl, and shortened it to Zombie Shawl.  Do you see the Rainbow?  Now You Know!  Feel free to rename it to something pretty if you desire.😊😘
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::Please read the pattern all the way through to get an understanding and overview of what you will be doing.::
You may use any yarn you choose and the appropriate size needle to get the guage you want.  For this Shawl I chose Red Heart Super Saver yarn, Aspen Print colourway.   Needle size, 5 mm.I recommend a cabled or round needle as you will have many stitches and the work gets heavy as you increase the size of your work.  You could use a bigger size to have a more loose knit, or a smaller size for a tighter look.  I suggest doing a 4" swatch to see how you like the guage for the needle you choose.
Pattern: Verrry simple..
A Prologue first:  It is a version of the Granny's Dishcloth, but you only need to make it into a Triangle.  Easy, peasy!  The difference in this pattern is that when you get to one stitch before the middle stitch, you do a Yarn Over, knit the middle stitch, Yarn Over, this increases the stitch count and gives the shawl 'Wings' or a little more ease when it is worn.  Also I highly recommend stitch markers for when you get to that middle area.  So, one marker before and after that middle stitch.
The Open Lacey 'Holes' in the 'Fancy' Version are done by a Yarn Over Knit 2 together Combo. Yarn Over Combos in this shawl are  implemented by Slip, Knit, lift slipped stitch over the knit stitch, then a Yarn Over.  This gives a Left leaning decrease.  For the Right leaning decrease Knit 2 stitches together knit ways, then a Yarn Over. If  you prefer a Plain, but still attractive version, just keep doing the Yarn over after the first 2 stitches, Yarn Over before and after the Middle stitch and a Yarn Over before the last 2 stitches.
Abbreviations:  SM=Stitch Marker  Sts=Stitches  K=Knit  P=Purl  YO=Yarn Over  K2tog=Knit 2 together(left leaning decrease)  SKTog= Slip a stitch, Knit the next stitch, put the slip stitch over the knit st, (right leaning decrease)
Ready, Set....Start knitting....Cast on 3 stitches.  Knit those 3 stitches.
Row 1: (Right Side): K 1 stitch, YO, K 1, YO, K 1.  You now have 5 stitches on your needles.
Row 2: (Wrong Side): K1 Purl to Last Stitch K1
Row 3: K 2,  YO, K1, YO, K 2. (7 sts on needle)
Row 4: K 2, P to last 2 sts, K2
Row 5: K 2, YO, K1, YO. place a SM, K 1, place the second SM, YO,  K1,YO, K2
Row 6: K2, P to last 2sts,( move the SM as you come to them) K2.
Row 7: K2, YO, K to 1st SM. move the SM onto the Right Needle, YO, K1 (this is your middle stitch) YO, move SM right needle. Knit to the last 2 sts. YO, K2.
Row 8: K2, P all stitches (moving marker from left to right needle) to the last 2sts, K2.
Now let's take a breath and see what we have done so far.
We have a Yarn Over after the first 2 Stitches and before the last 2 stitches on the Right Side of our Shawl.  We have a YO before and after the Middle Stitch.  We have, on the wrong side, Knit the first  and last 2 stitches. We have purled the rest in between.
You may continue in this manner until the shawl is large enough to suit you and then for the last 3 rows of your work you will do this:
Knit 2, YO, K2tog,YO, K2tog to the middle stitch,(taking off the SMs before and after)which may be included in the K2tog, depending on how many stitches you have on the needles.  For the rest of the stitches you will do YO, SKTog to the last 2 sts, K2.
Next Row:  K2, P to the last 2sts. K2
Last Row is Binding Off.  I suggest a loose bind off using a Larger size Needle, even 2 sizes larger, so that you get a 'stretchy' last row. If you have a favourite loose-type bind off, go ahead and do that.
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The above was the simple, solid shawl that is good to go.  If you want to be Fancy, then  Knit/Purl, Yarn Overs, before and after Middle Stitch, as the pattern above instructs, for several rows or a few inches from the cast on, and do a Knit 2 together, Yarn Over repeating to the middle stitch, with a YO before and after middle stitch, then do the Slip, Knit, Pass slipped stitch over, thenYarn Over repeating to the last 2 Stiches, K2. Maintain the YO after the first 2sts. and before the last 2 sts.  Then as before on the wrong side, K2. Purl to last 2, K2. Knit a few more inches and on the right side, do the same YO, K2tog ,etc as explained in the preceeding sentence.
When you are all done, weave in any ends, wash according to the label and block.
There you are! A Beautuful Shawl that you can name anything that suits your Fancy!  I have knit this shawl in finer yarn and larger needles to get a light, airy summer shawl, with or without the extra Yarn Overs in the body.  You can add beads as you knit or sew them on after.  You can add sequins as you knit or sew them on after.  You can add a Tassel at the bottom point and even at the two points at the top of the shawl ...use your imagination and Have Fun!

Tower of Cowl

Yes, another cowl. A Tower of a Cowl.  Very easy and satisfying  to knit up.  This is outta mine own talented (lol) head. It's Reversible, Foldable, and Affordable!

What you need: 1 skein  4 ply yarn in a colour and type you like.

Needles   Size 6   24" Cable Needles or set of size 6 straights.

Pattern:  Using Cables Needles, cast on 61 stitches. Place a marker at the last cast on stitch.  Then, making sure that the stitches are not twisted, knit into the first stitch you cast on. If you are using straight needles, you do not need a stitch marker.  Purl the next st., K1, P1, to the marker or if using straights to the end of the row.  This is the end of your first row. Move the marker to the right needle, if using cabled needles.   For the next row, look at the previous row of stitches, you now want to put a purl stitch over the previous row knit stitch and a knit stitch over the previous purl stitch.
What you are doing is called Seed Stitch. Look at the picture above to see how this looks.  Do this for 50 rows, or more if you want to have a deeper cowl that you could pull up to cover your head as well as your neck.  Cast off loosely knitting every stitch. If you have used straight needles, now you will join the sides to make the circle.
Now, how easy was that!!!!

Knit Picky

Got a few 'irons' in the fire, so knitting has been on the back burner.  Ha!  References to heat are appropriate as the weather here  has heated up quite a bit in the last week.  So, I will be posting soon, just have to finish the latest item.  It's a shawl and very easy to work up.

Not Knitting

Here is an item that is not knit by me. It was sewn by me.  It's a cooler for your neck or head when the weather is unbearably hot.  I made it because I couldn't find the one I bought many years ago on a trip to New Brunswick, and, being really desparate to cool off, I decided to make a new one.  It's a cotton tube partialy filled with a product called "Water Babies".  The 'Babies' are capsules that swell up in water, so they expand  in the cotton tube and hold the cold.  It was a lifesaver and kept me from keeling over while outside and even inside it made me so much more comfortable while the AC kicked in.

New Cabled Hat - BABY IT'S COLD OUTSIDE

                                                  BABY IT'S COLD OUTSIDE

Another Cable pattern from me, Ann of Green Cables.

Yarn:  Any Yarn that will give the gauge of 8 row/6sts. = 2"
Needles: Size 6mm  - 10US  Straight or Cabled/Circular
Terms:     Sts. = Stitches  K = Knit  P= Purl  Tog= Together  Sl = Slip  RS =Right Side  WS=Wrong Side  Dec.=Decrease

                                               :PATTERN:

  Cast on 62 Stitches - this should make a hat about 21” in circumference 
Slip 1st st.,  K 2,  P2  to last stitch, K1, for 16 rows.  This will give you a fold up brim for extra warmth. If you don't want a fold up brim do 8 rows of Ribbing.
Row 1    (RS) This is the set up row for the Cables and Ribs:   Sl 1, K2, P2, K6,: P2, K2, P2, K6,: P2, K2, P2, K6; P2, K2, P2, K6; P2, K2, P2, K6;  P2 K1
Row 2    (WS) Sl 1, Knit the Knit sts, Purl the Purl sts Knit the last stitch.
Row 3    As Row 1 (RS)
Row 4    As Row 2 (WS)
Row 5    As Row 1 (RS)
Row 6    As Row 2 (WS)
Row 7    (RS)  This is the Cable and Rib Row.  Sl 1, K2, P2, (1st cable) put the next 3 stitches  on a stitch holder and holding those stitches at the front of the work, knit the next 3 stitches onto your right needle.  Now Knit the 3 stitches fron the holder onto the right needle; First Cable made.  P2; K2; P2; (2nd)Cable next 6 stitches as before.  P2, K2, P2:  (3rd), Cable next 6 sts, P2, K2,P2:  (4th) Cable next 6sts. P2, K2, P2: (5th Cable) Cable next 6 sts. P2, K1
Row 8    As Row 2  (WS)
Row 9    As Row 1  (RS )
Row 10  As Row 2  (WS)
Row 11  As Row  1 (RS)
Row 12   As Row  2 (WS)
Row 13  As Row  1  (RS)
Row 14  As Row  2  (WS)
Row 15  Cable Row as Row 7 (RS)
Row 16  As Row  2 (WS)
Row 17  As Row  1 (RS)
Row 18  As Row  2 (WS)
Row 19   As Row  1 (RS)
Row 20   As Row  2 (WS)
Row 21   Cable Row as Row 7  (RS)
Row 22   Decrease Row (WS) Purl the purl sts.  When you come to the Knit Sts, K 2 tog. to end of row
Row 23   (RS)  Sl 1; K2 tog., P1; K6; P1; K2 tog;  P1: K6; P1; K2tog;  P1; K6; P1; K2tog; P1; K2tog; P1; K6; P1; K 2tog; P1; K6; P1; K last St.
Row 24   (WS) Sl 1; Knit all the stitches (this makes a decorative stitch before the multiple decreases you will make in the next rows.
Row 25   (RS) Decrease row.  Count the stitches on your needle.  Divide by 4.  e.g. 32/4 = 8. ( if you have a leftover,  just knit it at the end of the row.)  Now you will knit to 2 stitches before the division answer and Knit 2 tog to the end of the row.
Row 26   (WS) Sl 1, Purl all the stitches
Row 27   (RS) Sl 1 Note where your decreases were on Row 25.  Knit to 2 stitches before the previous decrease and K 2 tog.tothe end of the row.
Row 28   (WS)Sl 1,  Purl all the stitches.
Row 29   (RS)  As in Row 27, note where you decreased and knit to 2 sts. before the dec. and K 2 tog. to the end of row
Row 30   (WS)  Sl 1;  Purl row
Row 31   (RS)  Sl 1;   As in previous dec. rows, knit to 2 sts. before the previous dec and K2 tog.
Row 32   (WS)  Sl 1;  Purl row
Row 33   (RS) Sl 1;    As previously, Knit to 2 sts before previous dec and K2tog
Row 34    Hooray!!!! This is the last 'Row' ---  No more knit or purl, just measure off 24" of yarn from the needel to the skein and cut there.
Now thread a yarn needle with the cut end and run the needle through the live stitches on your needle to the last stitch and pull tight.  Now, matching up the sides making sure that Purl Row on the Right side matches up an sew down the side of the hat. 
VOILA!!!!!! You have a hat that will keep you warm and get compliments from everyone!
I hope you had fun knitting this and of course you can pass the pattern around for Free!  A thank you to me would be appreciated.  Ann of Green Cables., aka Mar
I have checked this pattern for errors, ets., but if you have any difficulties or questions my blog is:   annofgreencables.blogspot.ca   where you can post in the comments section and I will do my best to help.

LEARN TO CABLE and KEEP YOUR COFFE and TEA WARM

A very easy set, by Ruth Churchman on Ravelry to knit up. The pattern tutorial for learning to knit Cables, is called
Cosy Cafetiere & Tea Cosy.
A quick knit for the experienced knitter, a great way to learn cable knitting and have useful, lovely items to keep or gift.
There is a link to Ravelry on the Sidebar.  It's the second name  on the list.  A great site for knitters and crocheters.

One Shades of Gray

 So, in a previous post, I showed a 5 Cabled Cowl and posted the pattern. After finishing said Cowl, I remembered that I had knit a Hat/Toque and a pair of Leg Warmers to make a Set.  Just because I can, I named the set  One Shades of Gray.
Patterns:
Cowl: See below, the post called 5 Cabled Cowl, where the pattern is typed out.
 Leg Warmers/Boot Toppers :  These are a norrower and shorter version of the cowl.  Measure your calf or the boot legs you are making them for and you can figure out how many stittches to cast on.  The cables are 6 Knit stitches, the  Purl stitches are a 6 count.  So 4 cables, plus 3 purl borders equals 36  sttiches., plus the 2 stitches I prefer to Slip 1 and Knit last brings the count to 38. Knit a few rows of 38 stitches and if that seems too narrow add 12 more stitches to the count and try that width.  Decide how long you want them and knit to that length.
Hat/Toque:  Needles size 4mm  6US    size 5mm  8US Yarn:  Red Heart Softs Solids & Heather, Light Grey Heather Aran 10 ply.   or whatever colour turns your crank.  1 Skein, of which you will not likely use all the yarn.  Hence the Leg Warmers from the left over yarn, or another hat if you please.
Pattern:
Cast on 70sts. Now you will start the pattern. Slip the first stitch, Knit the last stitch on every row.  Knit a Rib stitch of knit 2, purl 2, for 10 rows, or, if you want a wider brim, to roll up, 20 rows.
The next row (this will be the Wrong Side) is an increase row in knit stitches.  Slip the 1st stitch. Make 1, Knit 2 Make 1, to the last stitch  K1.  (106 sts.)
Next row, (Right Side) Slip 1st st. Purl this row to the last stitch. K1.
Next Row:First row of pattern on Wrong Side This an increase row to bring you to 110 Sts. Slip 1st st. Purl 6; k5, Make 1; Purl 6;  K6; P6; K6; P6: K5; Make 1; P6; K6; P6; K5, make 1, P6; K6; P6; K5; Make 1; P6; K6; K1
Next Row. (right side)  S1, Purl 6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; Knit 1
As you may now see, you are knitting the knit stitches, and purling the purl stitches.
You will do this for the next 5 Rows.  So, you are now at the end of   Row 7.(wrong side)
Row 8:  (Right Side) Cable row:   Slip 1; Purl  6;  Place next 3 sts on a cable needle holder and hold in back of work; Knit 3, Knit 3 sts from holder; Purl 6; Repeat the place 3 on holder, hold in back K3, K3 from holder, Purl 6; to the last stitch which is knit.
You are now back to Knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts. on the wrong side.
Row 1:Slip 1; Purl 6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; K1.
Row 2: Slip 1; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K1
Row 3:  Repeat row 1
Row 4:  Repeat row 2
Row 5:  Repeat row 1
Row 6:  Repeat row 2
Row 7:  Repeat row 1
Row 8:  The cable row which you will repeat as above.
So, now you have 2 crossed cable patterns in your beautiful hat..
Now comes the decreases, which will be done on the purl sections of your beautiful hat.
Row 2:  On the right side only when you are at the purl section of the pattern. Purl 2, Purl 2 together, Purl 2.
Row 4: Right side: at the Purl section Purl 2, Purl 2 together, Purl 1.
Row 6: Right side: at the Purl section Purl 1, Purl 2 together. Purl 1.
Row 8: Do not do the cable cross. Knit 2 Knit 2 together Knit 2; At the Purl section Purl 1, Purl 2 together.
Next Row: Wrong side: Slip 1;  Knit all the stitches.
Next Row: Right side: Slip 1; Knit 2 together to the end of the row.
Next Row:Wrong side; Slip 1; Knit 2 together to the end of the row.
Keeping your stitches on the needle, measure off 16" of yarn from the needle and cut it.  Now thread a large-eyed yarn needle and run that yarn through the stitched on the needle stitch by stitch until all the stitches have yarn through them and they are off the needle.  Easy eh?  Now pull that yarn tight and begin to sew the side edges together from the wrong side. Make sure the sides are lining up by pinning them with straight pins that are suitable for knits.  I use my old plastic pins from the hair rollers that I used many, many moons ago.  When you have sewn the sides and knotted off you should make sure that there are no ends dangling by weaving them in with a small crochet hook or the sewing needle you used.
I hope the pattern is clear to you, if not...............Of course you can contact me.  Happy Knitting.


                

Oversized Shawl or Wrap

I knit two of these wraps, for two of my daughters for Christmas 2015.  The squares are joined as you knit, in strips of six.  For this wrap, I joined three strips of six to get the size shown.  The pattern looks complicated, but it really isn't. I did it in the recommended Light Gray Heather and Black , but you could make it in any two colours you wish. It is a free pattern from Red Heart Yarns.  The pattern is called :  Oversized Shawl, by Julie Hines.
You can download it at :  http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/oversized-shawl

Just because I like to experiment with a pattern, I decided to double the cast on stitches and made a Shawl/Wrap, with only one wide strip, for myself.  The other alternative is to make more strips and perhaps add one or two more squares to make a blanket or throw.  I'm planning on starting a throw this summer, to knit at the cottage.  Also, you could use a cotton blend and fewer cast on stitches, one colour, and make up dishcloths, wash/spa cloths.  Use your imagination my friends!  The possiblities are endless.  Wraps, Shawls, Bedspreads, Throws, Coats, Wall Hangings, etc.  You KNOW you can do eeeet!

Twisted Sisters Cabled Set

 
 Hello, another Cable Pattern that I was inspired to call Twisted Sisters.  The name seemed to fit as there are two pieces  and if you choose, a third, which is a Headband/Earwarmer.  The Cowl/Scarf is the Big Sister and the Hat or Earwarner  are the Middle and Little Sister.
You may know , or not, that I am on Ravelry where my name is LifeonMars.  I posted this  on Rav, but called it Baby It's Cold Outside, because I discovered that someone had already called their pattern Twisted Sisters, and not wanting to cause infringement, changed the name. I feel justified in keeping the original name here because this blog is mine and I can do that!
Soooo, now that you know the history, heeeeere's the pattern:

Necessities:  3 skeins of bulky yarn, colour of your choosing. ( I recommend NOT using very dark colours as, in my experience, they are hard on your eyes while knitting.)
Needles: Size 6mm /10 US or if you want a looser knit go up one size.  Doing a  6" swatch of stockinette will help you decide on needle size.  Alternatively, if you hate swatching and don't care, go with what you have.  A stitch holder is verrrry handy when knitting cables.  I have kntting safety-type pins that help keep those held stitches from running away. (the litte devils!)
Pattern: Please read allll the way through before you start as that will, hopefully, help you to understand what is required from your brain to your hands.  Also, if you want to knit a *scarf, repeat the 8 row pattern until the item is as long as you wish. Re knitting a scarf, you may want to start and end with a 8 rows of Ribbing, in any type of rib stitch you want.
Ready, Set,. Cast on 32 Stitches.  This does NOT count as Row 1. *scarf with ribs now begins and when that is finished you will start Row 1 of pattern.  Please Note: The 2 edges are composed of the first and last group of 7 stitches which are done in the manner of Slip the 1st, Knit 6 and Knit the last 7 stitches on EVERY  ROW.  Doing this gives the look of Ribbing and also slipping the first stitch and knitting the last stitch keep the edge firm.
Row 1:  (Wrong Side)  Slip 1st stitch; Knit 6; Purl 6; K6; P6; K7
Row 2:  (Right Side)  Slip 1st stitch; Knit 12; Purl 6: K13
Row 3:   Repeat Row 1
Row 4:   Repeat Row 2
Row 5:   Repeat Row 1
Row 6:   Repeat Row 2
Row 7:   Repeat Row 1
Row 8:   This is the Cable Row:  Slip 1; Knit 6;  First Cable: Place next Three stitches on your stitch holder and hold at back of work.  Knit the next Three stitches, then, placing the 3 held stitches back onto your left needle, knit these stitches onto your right needle.  Purl 6;  Second Cable: Place next Three sts. onto the stitch holder and hold at back of work.  Knit the next Three stitches, and then put the 3 stitches from the holder onto the left needle and knit them.  Knit 7.
These 8 rows are repeated as many times as needed to get the length you wish for a cowl, or scarf, casting off loosely kntwise. When you have cast off,  join the beginning and last rows together to form a circle that will fit over your head with a few extra inches for ease of fit.    
Ear Warmer/Headband:
Earwarmer/Headband is knit the same as the cowl, BUT leaving out the second cable stitches and there are fewer rows to fit the size head you are knitting for.
The headband is joined the same way as the cowl.

HAT:  This is knit the same way as the Earwarmer, but do not join the first and last rows yet.  To make the 'Top' of the hat, pick up and knit stitches from the right side of the long edge of your piece.  This part is done in stockinette stitch, so your next row is Purl stitches, next Knit one row, Purl one row until it's time to decrease.
Now, depending on how deep or large your Crown (and you are Royalty aren't you?) keep knitting in that stockinette stitch, for a few inches, and then start decreasing stitches by knitting two together on the knit side only. Method Count how many stitches are on your needle.  Divide that number by Four. These will be the decrease points.  So if, for instance the division gives the number 25, you will knit 23 stitches and knit the next 2 together repeating to the end of the row. So, continuing in that manner, (purling the wrong side)  the next knit row will be,  Knit 22, Knit 2 together, to the end of the row.  Next knit row, decrease after stitch 21, and so on.  If this part is not getting narrow enough, by decreases to suit your head size, the easy thing to do is take a yarn needle and thread it through the live stitches and pull them together.  Tie that off and then sew the sides together to form your lovely hat.  You could add a Pom-pom to the top just for sh*ts and giggles! Happy Knitting!

Say Hello to my Simon Cowl

How did I come to name this cowl, you may well ask. True story: After I finished it and tried it on, I said to myself "this is a cuddly, warm, Simon Cowl". Maybe I had a glass of wine, maybe not, before I named him, but he is warm, he is cuddly, and most important of all, he is Easy!

Now that you are all smiley and tsk, tsking, here is
 The Pattern.  My best advice is to read the pattern all the way through to make sure you understand it. Aso, you will understand that the edges of the work are done in Garter Stitch--that is knit every row.
 Necessary items:  Needles size U.S. 10 or 6mm.  I use cabled needles, because they don't (usually) drop off stitches when my back is turned.  You, if you can trust them, may use Straights.
Yarn:  2 skeins of acrylic Red Heart White or any Medium Weight yarn that is soft, and any colour you wish.  I prefer white.
How to: This is knit like a scarf, only not as long, and really, if you want to you could knit it into a scarf,(adding 6 - 8 rows of rib stitch at the beginning and end) which is longer than a cowl and you will need another skein.  You could still call it Simon, but it wouldn't be as cute!
So, cast on 48 sts.  This cast on row is NOT Row 1.  Odd Rows are the Right Side of work.  Even Rows are the Wrong Side of work.
This is a 10 Row Repeat Pattern.  Which you "Repeat" 12 times, or more if you need it to be longer.

Row 1: Right Side:  Slip 1st stitch knitways.  K 5;  P9;  K6;  P9;  K6; P9; K6
Row 2:  Wrong Side.  Slip 1st st. knitways.  k5;  K9;  P6;  K9; P6; K9; K6
Row 3:  Repeat Row 1
Row 4:   Repeat Row 2
Row 5:   Slip 1st St., K5;  P 6;  K3; P3; K3; P6; K3; P3; K3; P6; K6.
Row 6:   Slip 1st St., K5;  K6;  P3 ; K3; P3; K6; P3; K3; P3; K6; K6
Row 7:   Repeat Row 5
Row 8:   Repeat Row 6
Row 9:  Repeat Row 5
Row 10:Repeat Row 6
Now go back to Row 1.
As mentioned above, do these repeats for as many times as needed.
When you are at the last of the 10 row pattern, cast off loosely, and then join the two ends to form the cowl.
This pattern is free to share, just give little old me an acknowedgement.  Happy Knitting!

Here's A Simple Blanket Pattern

This is a simple pattern that I worked up. It's basically knit 4, purl 4, garter stitch at the bottom and top edges, garter stitch at both sides. You may share without charge, just give me an acknowledgement to make me happy!
 ............................................................
 The Necessities are:
Yarn: 5 Skeins Bernat Blanket yarn in any colour you choose
 Needles: US 11/8mm Cabled set if you can, because the project gets heavy) For casting on I recommend using one size up needles US 17/12.75mm. This will help the edge to not pull in.  I also advise for casting off.  Again to prevent a 'pulling in ' of the edge.
Gauge: 8 stitches//13 rows = 4 ", so 2 sts, 4 rows  gives 1 inch of blanket.  Doing up a 4 inch swatch gives a better idea of  how the gauge will fit what your finished blanket will measure.
Please, please, I strongly advise you to  read the pattern all the way through as that will help you to have an easier time knitting this project.  Then, if you have any questions, post in the Comments and I will do my best to answer you.
PATTERN
 LOOSELY cast on *122sts   120 of those stitches are knit as the pattern. The first and last stitches will be slipped and knit to make a firm edge.  You could cast on more (you will need more yarn for a larger blanket) or less, depending on how wide you want the blanket to be. Just have a number divisible by four.   The 122 sts will have the blanket be approximately 60 wide.
** My personal preference is always to cast on 2 extra stitches to this pattern, because I prefer to have a firm edge by slipping the first stitch, knit ways, of every row and knitting the last stitch of every row. There are other methods of getting a nice looking edge stitch. I suggest using Google to look up Edge Stitches.**
 Then you will begin the pattern.
After your Cast on row, and knitting the next four rows, the Basket Weave pattern begins.  DO NOT count the cast on row as the beginning of the pattern.
 Knit every row (Garter Stitch) for next 4 rows, remembering to always slip the first stitch knit ways and knit the last stitch of every row or do whatever edge stitch you prefer.  Side Edge I use   is worked as: Slip the first stitch knit ways, then Knit the next 4 and last 4 stitches of Every row plus that 1 extra stitch at the row end for the firm edge, until the Last 4 rows, where you then Knit all stitches (Garter Stitch) Remember the Slip 1st stitch knit ways that you have been doing all along  and Cast off Loosely, Knit ways on the 5th row using the larger size needle in your right hand. *(see HINT below) The Basket Weave effect is achieved in this manner:   Slip the 1st stitch knit wise, then after Knitting the first 4 stitches (Side Edge Stitches), knit 4 stitches and purl 4 stitches up to the last 5 stitches (that's the 4 plus 1 for the edge stitches). On the reverse side, after the edge stitches, purl 4, knit 4 for 10 rows. So you are purling the purl stitches and knitting the knit stitches.  The next 10 rows, you are reversing the knit and purl blocks, which  makes the Basket Weave pattern and the Blanket/Throw reversible.   Look at the picture above if that is not clear to you. So, you are knitting 4, purling 4 for 10 rows,then reversing the order of the groups of 4 for 10 rows, etc., until you reach the length you desire. **HINT: To have enough yarn for the the last 4 rows and the cast off row (5 rows total): After casting on the first row, Knit 2 rows, put a safety pin into the yarn and undo one row you just knit. (that other row of the 2 you just knit will count as row 1 of the bottom edge of the blanket) Measure the yarn from the safety pin to the beginning of the row still on the needle, multiply that by 5, then add another 12 inches to that number and you will know how much  yarn is needed to finish. I allowed an extra 12 inches in length because the cast off row should be loose, so that the edge does not ‘curl’. Write that measurement down, or, my preference,  pull off enough yarn from the last skein you will use. I tend to start a skein from the centre, so I measure off the amount from the outside of the skein and make a slip knot and put that safety pin in the loop so it won’t come undone. Then when you get a couple of feet close to that Marker/Safety Pin, you can decide whether you have enough yarn to complete the basket weave pattern, plus the four row garter stitch, knit every row, edge for the blanket.       Happy Knitting!

Trying my hand at Knitting Design

Here is a Pattern I designed.

   Five Cables Cowl --  An Original Pattern by Ann of Green Cables.

Feel free to share for No Charge.  I would appreciate  an Acknowledgement if you like the Pattern.

Please read the whole pattern through so that you are familiar with the stitches and terminology.
 
There is Additional pattern information at the end of the instructions  in regards to adjusting the pattern for other uses.

Yarn Info:  Red Heart Soft Solids & Heather   Light Grey Heather Colorway, Aran 10 ply
You can choose to use another color or combination of colors or Yarn that gives the guage.
Needles 5.5 or 6 to get gauge of 8 rows= 2''
Length 26” (or length when two ends are joined will go over your head with ease)Width  12''

Pattern:  Cast on 56 Stitches
Do NOT count the cast on  row as Row 1.
Row 1:  (this is the wrong side of your work, as are all odd rows)
Slip 1st stitch Knitwise; knit 4; purl 6; k4; p6; k4; p6; k4; p6; k4; p6; k5 (end of Row 1)
Row 2:  (this is the right side of work, as are all even rows)
Slip 1st stitch knitways;  k10; p4; k6; p4; k6 p4; k6; p4; k10; k1 (end of row 2)
R 3:  Repeat Row 1
R 4:  Repeat Row 2
R 5:  Repeat Row 1
R 6:  Repeat Row 2
R 7:  Repeat Row 1
Row 8:  This is the Cable Row:
Slip the first stitch knitwise;  Knit 4; Now you are going to make the First cable: Using a stitch holder/cable needle,
slip next 3 stitches knitwise onto the holder.
Hold these stitches at the Back of the work.  Knit the next 3 stitches from the left needle onto the right needle.
Now, transfer the 3 held stitches from the holder onto the left needle, knitwise.
Knit these 3 stitches.  This is your first cable.  It may look 'weird', but it will look better as you progress.
Purl 4 sts..
   Second Cable:  place next 3 sts onto holder and hold at Front of work;
Knit the next 3 sts. onto the right needle.  Now knit the 3 sts from the holder onto the right needle.  Second Cable formed.
Purl 4 sts.
 Third Cable; place next 3 sts onto holder and hold at Back of work.  Knit 3 sts.; Knit 3 sts from holder.
Purl 4 sts.
 Fourth Cable:  Place next 3 sts.  onto holder and hold in Front of work.  Knit 3 sts.; Knit 3 sts from holder.
Purl 4 sts. Fifth Cable:  Place next3 sts. onto holder and hold in Back of work.  Knit 3 sts.; Knit 3 sts. from holder.
Knit 4sts.  knit last stitch.
These Rows 1 to 8 are to be repeated as many times as you wish.
When the piece is as long as you want it to be, cast off loosely Purl wise.  Join ends together to form cowl.

Additional information:  If you wish to make a scarf, cast on 36 stitches.  This will give you 3 cables.
Adjusting the stitch count to 36, will eliminate 2 cables, so after the third cable you will knit 4 sts and knit the last stitch.
If you choose to make a scarf, you may want to first knit a few Rib stitch rows in a pattern of your choice, e.g.: k 2; p2 or any
decorative rib stitch, such as a twisted or k 4 p 4. and end the same way, casting off loosely to keep the stretch inherent in Rib stitch.
If you have read the pattern you may realize that you are slipping the first stitch of every row knitwise and knitting the last
stitch of every row.  You are also, by knitting the first 4 and last 4 stitches of every row, making a firm top and bottom
edge, or if making a scarf, a firm side edge.