Sunday, May 1, 2016
Cosy Cafetiere & Tea Cosy.
A quick knit for the experienced knitter, a great way to learn cable knitting and have useful, lovely items to keep or gift.
There is a link to Ravelry on the Sidebar. It's the firs on the list. A great site for knitters and crocheters.
Saturday, April 30, 2016
Cowl: See below, the post called 5 Cabled Cowl, where the pattern is typed out.
Leg Warmers/Boot Toppers : These are a norrower and shorter version of the cowl. Measure your calf or the boot legs you are making them for and you can figure out how many stittches to cast on. The cables are 6 Knit stitches, the Purl stitches are a 6 count. So 4 cables, plus 3 purl borders equals 36 sttiches., plus the 2 stitches I prefer to Slip 1 and Knit last brings the count to 38. Knit a few rows of 38 stitches and if that seems too narrow add 12 more stitches to the count and try that width. Decide how long you want them and knit to that length.
Hat/Toque: Needles size 4mm 6US size 5mm 8US Yarn: Red Heart Softs Solids & Heather, Light Grey Heather Aran 10 ply. or whatever colour turns your crank. 1 Skein, of which you will not likely use all the yarn. Hence the Leg Warmers from the left over yarn, or another hat if you please.
Cast on 70sts. Now you will start the pattern. Slip the first stitch, Knit the last stitch on every row. Knit a Rib stitch of knit 2, purl 2, for 10 rows, or, if you want a wider brim, to roll up, 20 rows.
The next row (this will be the Wrong Side) is an increase row in knit stitches. Slip the 1st stitch. Make 1, Knit 2 Make 1, to the last stitch K1. (106 sts.)
Next row, (Right Side) Slip 1st st. Purl this row to the last stitch. K1.
Next Row:First row of pattern on Wrong Side This an increase row to bring you to 110 Sts. Slip 1st st. Purl 6; k5, Make 1; Purl 6; K6; P6; K6; P6: K5; Make 1; P6; K6; P6; K5, make 1, P6; K6; P6; K5; Make 1; P6; K6; K1
Next Row. (right side) S1, Purl 6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; Knit 1
As you may now see, you are knitting the knit stitches, and purling the purl stitches.
You will do this for the next 5 Rows. So, you are now at the end of Row 7.(wrong side)
Row 8: (Right Side) Cable row: Slip 1; Purl 6; Place next 3 sts on a cable needle holder and hold in back of work; Knit 3, Knit 3 sts from holder; Purl 6; Repeat the place 3 on holder, hold in back K3, K3 from holder, Purl 6; to the last stitch which is knit.
You are now back to Knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts. on the wrong side.
Row 1:Slip 1; Purl 6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; K1.
Row 2: Slip 1; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K6; P6; K1
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Row 4: Repeat row 2
Row 5: Repeat row 1
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 1
Row 8: The cable row which you will repeat as above.
So, now you have 2 crossed cable patterns in your beautiful hat..
Now comes the decreases, which will be done on the purl sections of your beautiful hat.
Row 2: On the right side only when you are at the purl section of the pattern. Purl 2, Purl 2 together, Purl 2.
Row 4: Right side: at the Purl section Purl 2, Purl 2 together, Purl 1.
Row 6: Right side: at the Purl section Purl 1, Purl 2 together. Purl 1.
Row 8: Do not do the cable cross. Knit 2 Knit 2 together Knit 2; At the Purl section Purl 1, Purl 2 together.
Next Row: Wrong side: Slip 1; Knit all the stitches.
Next Row: Right side: Slip 1; Knit 2 together to the end of the row.
Next Row:Wrong side; Slip 1; Knit 2 together to the end of the row.
Keeping your stitches on the needle, measure off 16" of yarn from the needle and cut it. Now thread a large-eyed yarn needle and run that yarn through the stitched on the needle stitch by stitch until all the stitches have yarn through them and they are off the needle. Easy eh? Now pull that yarn tight and begin to sew the side edges together from the wrong side. Make sure the sides are lining up by pinning them with straight pins that are suitable for knits. I use my old plastic pins from the hair rollers that I used many, many moons ago. When you have sewn the sides and knotted off you should make sure that there are no ends dangling by weaving them in with a small crochet hook or the sewing needle you used.
I hope the pattern is clear to you, if not...............Of course you can contact me. Happy Knitting.
Friday, April 29, 2016
You can download it at : http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/oversized-shawl
Just because I like to experiment with a pattern, I decided to double the cast on stitches and made a Shawl/Wrap, with only one wide strip, for myself. The other alternative is to make more strips and perhaps add one or two more squares to make a blanket or throw. I'm planning of starting a throw this summer, to knit at the cottage. Also, you could use a cotton blend and fewer cast on stitches, one colour, and make up dishcloths, wash/spa cloths. Use your imagination my friends! The possiblities are endless. Wraps, Shawls, Bedspreads, Throws, Coats, Wall Hangings, etc. You KNOW you can do eeeet!
Wednesday, April 27, 2016
Hello, another Cable Pattern that I was inspired to call Twisted Sisters. The name seemed to fit as there are two pieces and if you choose, a third, which is a Headband/Earwarmer. The Cowl/Scarf is the Big Sister and the Hat or Earwarner are the Middle and Little Sister.
You nay know, or not, that I am on Ravelry where my name is LifeonMars. I posted this on Rav, but called it Baby It's Cold Outside, because I discovered that someone had already called their pattern Twisted Sisters, and not wanting to cause infringement, changed the name. I feel justified in keeping the original name here because this blog is mine and I can do that!
Soooo, now that you know the history, heeeeere's the pattern:
Necessities: 3 skeins of bulky yarn, colour of your choosing. ( I recommend NOT using very dark colours as, in my experience, they are hard on your eyes while knitting.)
Needles: Size 6mm /10 US or if you want a looser knit go up one size. Doing a 6" swatch of stockinette will help you decide on needle size. Alternatively, if you hate swatching and don't care, go with what you have. A stitch holder is verrrry handy when knitting cables. I have kntting safety-type pins that help keep those held stitches from running away. (the litte devils!)
Pattern: Please read allll the way through before you start as that will, hopefully, help you to understand what is required from your brain to your hands. Also, if you want to knit a *scarf, repeat the 8 row pattern until the item is as long as you wish. Re knitting a scarf, you may want to start and end with a 8 rows of Ribbing, in any type of rib stitch you want.
Ready, Set,. Cast on 32 Stitches. This does NOT count as Row 1. *scarf with ribs now begins and when that is finished you will start Row 1 of pattern. Please Note: The 2 edges are composed of the first and last group of 7 stitches which are done in the manner of Slip the 1st, Knit 6 and Knit the last 7 stitches on EVERY ROW. Doing this gives the look of Ribbing and also slipping the first stitch and knitting the last stitch keep the edge firm.
Row 1: (Wrong Side) Slip 1st stitch; Knit 6; Purl 6; K6; P6; K7
Row 2: (Right Side) Slip 1st stitch; Knit 12; Purl 6: K13
Row 3: Repeat Row 1
Row 4: Repeat Row 2
Row 5: Repeat Row 1
Row 6: Repeat Row 2
Row 7: Repeat Row 1
Row 8: This is the Cable Row: Slip 1; Knit 6; First Cable: Place next Three stitches on your stitch holder and hold at back of work. Knit the next Three stitches, then, placing the 3 held stitches back onto your left needle, knit these stitches onto your right needle. Purl 6; Second Cable: Place next Three sts. onto the stitch holder and hold at back of work. Knit the next Three stitches, and then put the 3 stitches from the holder onto the left needle and knit them. Knit 7.
These 8 rows are repeated as many times as needed to get the length you wish for a cowl, or scarf, casting off loosely kntwise. When you have cast off, join the beginning and last rows together to form a circle that will fit over your head with a few extra inches for ease of fit.
Earwarmer/Headband is knit the same as the cowl, BUT leaving out the second cable stitches and there are fewer rows to fit the size head you are knitting for.
The headband is joined the same way as the cowl.
HAT: This is knit the same way as the Earwarmer, but do not join the first and last rows yet. To make the 'Top' of the hat, pick up and knit stitches from the right side of the long edge of your piece. This part is done in stockinette stitch, so your next row is Purl stitches, next Knit one row, Purl one row until it's time to decrease.
Now, depending on how deep or large your Crown (and you are Royalty aren't you?) is keep knitting in that stockinette stitch, for a few inches, and then start decreasing stitches by knitting two together on the knit side only. Method Count how many stitches are on your needle. Divide that number by Four. These will be the decrease points. So if, for instance the division gives the number 25, you will knit 23 stitches and knit the next 2 together repeating to the end of the row. So, continuing in that manner, (purling the wrong side) the next knit row will be, Knit 22, Knit 2 together, to the end of the row. Next knit row, decrease after stitch 21, and so on. If this part is not getting narrow enough, by decreases to suit your head size, the easy thing to do is take a yarn needle and thread it through the live stitches and pull them together. Tie that off and then sew the sides together to form your lovely hat. You could add a Pom-pom to the top just for sh*ts and giggles! Happy Knitting!
Tuesday, April 26, 2016
How did I come to name this cowl, you may well ask. True story: After I finished it and tried it on, I said to myself "this is a cuddly, warm, Simon Cowl". Maybe I had a glass of wine, maybe not, before I named him, but he is warm, he is cuddly, and most important of all, he is Easy!
Now that you are all smiley and tsk, tsking, here is
The Pattern. My best advice is to read the pattern all the way through to make sure you understand it. Aso, you will understand that the edges of the work are done in Garter Stitch--that is knit every row.
Necessary items: Needles size U.S. 10 or 6mm. I use cabled needles, because they don't (usually) drop off stitches when my back is turned. You, if you can trust them, may use Straights.
Yarn: 2 skeins of acrylic Red Heart White or any Medium Weight yarn that is soft, and any colour you wish. I prefer white.
How to: This is knit like a scarf, only not as long, and really, if you want to you could knit it into a scarf,(adding 6 - 8 rows of rib stitch at the beginning and end) which is longer than a cowl and you will need another skein. You could still call it Simon, but it wouldn't be as cute!
So, cast on 48 sts. This cast on row is NOT Row 1. Odd Rows are the Right Side of work. Even Rows are the Wrong Side of work.
This is a 10 Row Repeat Pattern. Which you "Repeat" 12 times, or more if you need it to be longer.
Row 1: Right Side: Slip 1st stitch knitways. K 5; P9; K6; P9; K6; P9; K6
Row 2: Wrong Side. Slip 1st st. knitways. k5; K9; P6; K9; P6; K9; K6
Row 3: Repeat Row 1
Row 4: Repeat Row 2
Row 5: Slip 1st St., K5; P 6; K3; P3; K3; P6; K3; P3; K3; P6; K6.
Row 6: Slip 1st St., K5; K6; P3 ; K3; P3; K6; P3; K3; P3; K6; K6
Row 7: Repeat Row 5
Row 8: Repeat Row 6
Row 9: Repeat Row 5
Row 10:Repeat Row 6
Now go back to Row 1.
As mentioned above, do these repeats for as many times as needed.
When you are at the last of the 10 row pattern, cast off loosely, and then join the two ends to form the cowl.
This pattern is free to share, just give little old me an acknowedgement. Happy Knitting!
Monday, April 25, 2016
The Neccessities are:
Yarn: 5 Skeins Bernat Blanket yarn in any colour you choose Needles: US 15 / 10 mm (Use a Cabled set if you can, because the project gets heavy)
Gauge: 4 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches
Please, please, I strongly advise you to read the pattern all the way through as that will help you to have an easier time knitting this project. Then, if you have any questions, post in the Comments and I will do my best to answer you.
LOOSELY cast on 122 stitches. 120 of those stitches are knit as the pattern. The first and last stitches will be slipped and knit to make a firm edge. You could cast on more (you will need more yarn for a larger blanket) or less, depending on how wide you want the blanket to be. Just have a number divisible by four.
* My personal preference is always to cast on 2 extra stitches to this pattern, because I prefer to have a firm edge by slipping the first stitch, knitwise, of every row and knitting the last stitch of every row. Then you will begin the pattern.
After your Cast on row, the pattern begins. DO NOT count the cast on row as the beginning of the pattern.
Knit every row (Garter Stitch) for next 4 rows, remembering to always slip the first stitch knitways and knit the last stitch of every row. Side Edge is worked as: Slip the first stitch knitways, then Knit the next 4 and last 4 stitches of Every row plus that 1 extra stitch at the row end for the firm edge, until the Last 4 rows, where you then Knit all stitches (Garter Stitch) Remember the Slip 1st stitch knitways that you have been doing all along and Cast off Loosely, Knitwise on the 5th row. *(see HINT below) The Basket Weave effect is acheived in this manner: Slip the 1st stitch knitwise, then after Knitting the first 4 stitches (Side Edge Stitches), knit 4 stitches and purl 4 stitches up to the last 5 stitches (that's the 4 plus 1 for the edge stitches). On the reverse side, after the edge stitches, purl 4, knit 4 for 10 rows. So you are purling the purl stitches and knitting the knit stitches. The next 10 rows, you are reversing the knit and purl blocks, which makes the Basket Weave pattern and the Blanket/Throw reversible. Look at the picture above if that is not clear to you. So, you are knitting 4, purling 4 for 10 rows,then reversing the order of the groups of 4 for 10 rows, etc., until you reach the length you desire. *HINT: To have enough yarn for the the last 4 rows and the cast off row (5 rows total): After casting on the first row, Knit 2 rows, put a safety pin into the yarn and undo one row you just knit. (that other row of the 2 you just knit will count as row 1 of the bottom edge of the blanket) Measure the yarn from the safety pin to the begining of the row still on the needle, multiply that by 5, then add another 12 inches to that number and you will know how much is yarn is needed to finish. I allowed an extra 12 inches in length because the cast off row should be loose, so that the edge does not ‘curl’. Write that measurement down, or, my preference, pull off enough yarn from the last skein you will use. I tend to start a skein from the centre, so I measure off the amount from the outside of the skein and make a slip knot and put that safety pin in the loop so it won’t come undone. Then when you get close to that Marker/Saftey Pin, you can decide whether you have enough yarn to complete the 10 row pattern. Happy Knitting!
Five Cables Cowl -- An Original Pattern by Ann of Green Cables.
Feel free to share for No Charge. I would appreciate an Acknowledgement if you like the Pattern.
Please read the whole pattern through so that you are familiar with the stitches and terminology.
There is Additional pattern information at the end of the instructions in regards to adjusting the pattern for other uses.
Yarn Info: Red Heart Soft Solids & Heather Light Grey Heather Colorway, Aran 10 ply
You can choose to use another color or combination of colors or Yarn that gives the guage.
Needles 5.5 or 6 to get gauge of 8 rows= 2''
Length 24'' Width 12''
Pattern: Cast on 56 Stitches
Do NOT count the cast on row as Row 1.
Row 1: (this is the wrong side of your work, as are all odd rows)
Slip 1st stitch Knitwise; knit 4; purl 6; k4; p6; k4; p6; k4; p6; k4; p6; k5 (end of Row 1)
Row 2: (this is the right side of work, as are all even rows)
Slip 1st stitch knitways; k10; p4; k6; p4; k6 p4; k6; p4; k10; k1 (end of row 2)
R 3: Repeat Row 1
R 4: Repeat Row 2
R 5: Repeat Row 1
R 6: Repeat Row 2
R 7: Repeat Row 1
Row 8: This is the Cable Row:
Slip the first stitch knitwise; Knit 4; Now you are going to make the First cable: Using a stitch holder/cable needle,
slip next 3 stitches knitwise onto the holder.
Hold these stitches at the Back of the work. Knit the next 3 stitches from the left needle onto the right needle.
Now, transfer the 3 held stitches from the holder onto the left needle, knitwise.
Knit these 3 stitches. This is your first cable. It may look 'weird', but it will look better as you progress.
Purl 4 sts..
Second Cable: place next 3 sts onto holder and hold at Front of work;
Knit the next 3 sts. onto the right needle. Now knit the 3 sts from the holder onto the right needle. Second Cable formed.
Purl 4 sts.
Third Cable; place next 3 sts onto holder and hold at Back of work. Knit 3 sts.; Knit 3 sts from holder.
Purl 4 sts.
Fourth Cable: Place next 3 sts. onto holder and hold in Front of work. Knit 3 sts.; Knit 3 sts from holder.
Purl 4 sts. Fifth Cable: Place next3 sts. onto holder and hold in Back of work. Knit 3 sts.; Knit 3 sts. from holder.
Knit 4sts. knit last stitch.
These Rows 1 to 8 are to be repeated as many times as you wish.
When the piece is as long as you want it to be, cast off loosely Purl wise. Join ends together to form cowl.
Additional information: If you wish to make a scarf, cast on 36 stitches. This will give you 3 cables.
Adjusting the stitch count to 36, will eliminate 2 cables, so after the third cable you will knit 4 sts and knit the last stitch.
If you choose to make a scarf, you may want to first knit a few Rib stitch rows in a pattern of your choice, e.g.: k 2; p2 or any
decorative rib stitch, such as a twisted or k 4 p 4. and end the same way, casting off loosely to keep the stretch inherent in Rib stitch.
If you have read the pattern you may realize that you are slipping the first stitch of every row knitwise and knitting the last
stitch of every row. You are also, by knitting the first 4 and last 4 stitches of every row, making a firm top and bottom
edge, or if making a scarf, a firm side edge.